Custom finishes

Metal protection

Lubrication of moving joints

Lubrication of fasteners (screws especially)

Molds

Christmas presents (scented candles, etc)

And the list goes on - use your imagination and experiment

Beeswax has been used as a wood finish for ages.  In fact, Colonial American woodworkers were instrumental in using beeswax for furniture finishes.  And, during those times, their process for making it was quite the drawn out affair.  They first had to climb inside a tree to steal the wax combs, make the stain, extract turpentine for the solvent, make a pot to melt the wax in, build a fire to melt the wax and all the while this is going on the wife is standing in the kitchen nagging the poor guy for a stupid shelf or another wooden bowl instead of weaving the cloth he needs to spread his newly made wax finish (times were tough in Colonial days).

Fortunately for you all of that malarkey is a thing of the past and is quite unnecessary although your wife should still be in the kitchen.  

What I have for you is pure Montana beeswax - nothing added and nothing taken away.

The price is $8.00 per pound

I can get right at two pounds in the small USPS Priority Mail flat rate box and about eleven pounds in the medium.  I weigh each block with a postal scale so you're only being charged for the wax, not the box.

Click HERE to order or to request additional information.

In your email please specify how much you want and your physical mailing address.  The molds I use don't always come out the same weight, hence the postal scale.  When I get your order boxed up I will send you a note with the total of product and shipping charges.

While you're deciding if you want to order some or how much then you can take a few minutes and read the story of my first experience making a beeswax finish.  Simply click on the picture and you'll be whisked away. 

Beeswax woodworking finish recipe

I suppose if you donned a mad scientist gown and painted on a maniacal face you could come up with some of your own recipes.  However, keep in mind beeswax is technically a solvent based product.  This means it doesn't mix with water - it fact, it, quite literally, walks on water - so using a water-based stain isn't going to work for you.  I've had very good luck using Minwax and Old Masters products and I'm sure there are others out there but I simply haven't tried them.

This is the finish recipe I use and it makes enough to almost fill the size of can car wax comes in.  In my case I use Planter's nut cans because they're about the right size and they come equipped with a perfect sealing snap lid.  What a deal!  You get to eat the nuts then use the container - you can't any greener 'n that folks!

• 8 oz. (give or take by weight) of beeswax (preferably purchased from me because I care and I'm a good guy)

• 6 fl. oz. of true Mineral Spirits (not the green, tree-huggin', California-it's-gonna-kill-us-now-if-we-don't-outlaw-it-yesterday kind)

• 2 to 4 fl. oz. of your stain color (the more you use the darker the paste wax will be)

• A suitable container to melt the wax (I use a metal coffee can with the top lip bent in to create a pouring spout)

• A hot plate or some form of heating device

• A wooden stirring stick

Once all your ingredients, components and utensils are together it's time to concoct your finish...

• Grab your hot plate (or use the kitchen stove - this ain't no where near rocket science)

Note: beeswax melts at a rather low temperature so don't let it get too hot - a low to medium-lo setting is best.

• Drop the wax into the melting pot and stir occasionally until wax is completely melted.

Note: once the wax has melted you are now into constant stirring mode.

• Turn off heat (remove pot from burner)

Note: you have plenty of time here so don't get antsy.

• Add Mineral Spirits

• Add stain

Stir for approximately 91 and 3/4 seconds then pour it into your hopefully clean and now certainly green Planter's peanut can and set it aside to cool into a paste state (around 3 hours).  Do not put the cover on the can until after it has fully cooled.

Now you're ready to apply it on your woodworking project, coat the surfaces of your cast iron equipment or whatever.

Remember, mineral sprits will flash off so keep the can covered when you're not using it.